A very full weekend

Catholic Mission, Ndop

We intended to travel to Ndop (1 hour out of Bamenda) on Friday morning, for a day long VSO volunteer meeting.  However, a call from one of the organisers on Thursday informed us that a paid up bed was available at the Catholic mission if we wanted to come early.  We arrived in Ndop in time for a delicious evening meal.

Missions such as this, run by religious groups are the best place to stay when travelling around Cameroon.  They are not luxurious, but always clean, with working toilets, good food and hot water.  After the meal, we gathered at our cottage – 5 rooms arranged around a common room.  We sat and chatted.  I headed for the sac about 9 but the hardy ones continued several hours.  It is hard to explain how valuable this time with fellow volunteers is – a wonderful opportunity to share experiences and frustrations.  It makes you realize that you are not the only one having doubts. 

Kareen, Heather, Amelita, Rob

 The next day’s sessions went well.  A lot of good work was done,with some recommendations about volunteer support going back to VSO Cameroon and a better understanding of financial management in NGOs and councils. 

Friday night, we headed off to Jakiri with a volunteer Shamsul to visit his house.  This is another 1 – 3 hours further, depending on the condition of the roads.  Another colleague, Pat, who lives another hour or so beyond in Kumba came along.  We bought extra seats in the taxi (otherwise you have to wait for the driver to fill his car with six others – they want 8 in a car).  I said the roads in Cameroon were bad – in this case there was barely a road at all – just muddy rut after muddy rut.  Potholes that could swallow a VW Beetle are hardly and exaggeration.  And the road was dry – imagine after a heavy rain!  We bumped our way up the mountain to Jakiri.  Wide vistas, revealing ribbons of falls down the cliff, greeted us at every corner – spectacular!

Shamsul is muslim – currently fasting for Ramadan.  But as soon as the sun set, we were presented with fresh dates, bananas and nuts.  This was followed by an excellent beef curry, mixed vegetables and plain rice.  Do I need to tell you we overate!  After the meal, we watched a Bollywood movie with occasional English subtitles.  We did manage to follow the plot – which was very funny!  Then to bed, which was the most comfortable bed we have slept in for months!

After a lazy Saturday morning for me, an early departure for Pat (to beat the rain) and a walk to the summit for Dave and Shamsul, we hired a taxi back to Bamenda, which we reached in record time – 2 hours – just missing the rain.

The road down from Shamsul's

In Bamenda, Dave gets a text from Simon, inviting us to beautiful Belo to celebrate his birthday.  So, Sunday, off we go for another ride in the mountains, about an hour away to enjoy some relaxation time with other volunteers before heading back again. 

Thank goodness today, Monday, is a national holiday, giving us the opportunity to sleep in and rest after a very full weekend.  

New Placement

After all this time, I finally have a new placement. All was finalized yesterday (Friday).

My new organizations is the North West Association for Development Organizations (NWADO). It is a networking agency with about 35 development organizations as members. I think I will be very busy there.

There were a few things I wanted out of the placement – which I did get. One is the flexibility to complete some projects that I started when between placements. Since all the projects and VSO related and since all the affected organizations are NWADO members, there was no issue there. Also, I retain some flexibility to continue to support HOPE, informally, if they request it. (More on this in a later paragraph.)

On the other hand, there are many things which I am expected to work on. First is a membership survey to assess what services members want from NWADO. Since it is the end of their 5 year plan, it makes sense to do this. Second, I will be supporting volunteers from the Welsh Assembly which will now come through NWADO. These are Welsh Civil Servants who come for a 6 week placements. They will be placed in different local councils (villages) so I will hopefully get to visit them there. Third, I will be working with a women’s rights organization to prepare a grant for a gender workshop (they are also NWADO members). Finally, I will help re-establish the shared area for VSO volunteers in Bamenda. That is a place where they can come to chat and share resources etc. At least that is a starting point.

I am looking forward to getting busy again – sitting at home has never been good for me.

As for HOPE, they are hoping to find a way to be less dependent on a single funder – and as best as I can, I will support them in that process. I also hope to continue helping them make for effective use of their computers etc.

So there it is…. Watch this space – there are bound to be interesting stories!

Visiting the Extreme North

For those of us who live in Canada, even in the UK, it is hard to imagine that any place in Africa, let alone Cameroon, could be called the “Extreme North”. But it exists, further north than the North Region (of Cameroon) and of the Far North Region. It is just east of Nigeria, South of Niger and West of Chad. More striking is that is it on the very edges of the Sahara desert. It takes 2 full days to get there from Bamenda and that includes an all night train trip.

As we drive closer to our destination Maroua, the landscape changes. Driving down from low mountains, the savannah displays its short trees and low grasses. Small herds of very skinny cows, goats and several donkeys graze quietly. Scattered here and there are traditional thatched huts, usually huddled in a group. The huts are not very big; I understand that there is usually one for each wife and her children and there may be one for storage. Of course, the head of the family has his own. It is a tough life for these villagers who have no electricity and no running water.

The rainy season has just begun in the Extreme North. That means that fields that are normally expanses of sand are showing some green: short grasses and the new shoots of the annual crop – maize, cotton, millet. In the middle of Maroua, there is even a small field of rice. However good that sounds, there is a real shortage of food. The rainy season came late and so the crops are late. Last year’s stock is long gone and market prices are up. People do not have sufficient food and a large number of the population is mal-nourished. Fruit is rare. If you have been following the crisis in Niger, it is working its way down to the Extreme North of Cameroon.

Our stay there was none the less pleasant. We stayed in a newer hotel with a good restaurant and a comfortable terrace. The rooms are clean, with A/C and hot water showers. The rooms are arranged around a treed courtyard where geckos of varying sizes and colours scuttle about. The only annoying part was the large amount of house flies and mosquitoes. (Canadian mosquitos may be big but you can hear them coming and the sting does not continue for three days. More importantly, they do not carry malaria!)

Dave and I were part of an exchange trip: representatives from two NGOs and two village councils were meeting a similar contingent from the Extreme North. We had four days of exchange and one day a VSO only meeting. It was great to greet colleagues and meet new friends. One morning, we went on a field trip to a counsel and then to a cotton and millet farm. On the way back, we spotted the 'sacred' mountain with a natural rock formation that resembles a sitting budha.  Quite amazing! The meetings were useful, though long drawn (time management is no one’s strong suit in Cameroon!). I felt like I was back in Canada as there were both French and English speakers and everything had to be translated. There was an excellent exchange of ideas and commitments to continue to learn from each other.

Part of our group made a very interesting visit to the Lamido (tribal chief) of one of the tribes. He received us in a carpeted room with little furniture. Shoes were left at the door and we discovered later that women were not supposed to enter without head cover – wish we had been told. The Lamino was quite gracious however, sitting on a sofa rather than his elaborate throne. He gave us an expose of the tribe’s history and patiently answered questions from the audience – first in his native language, then in French , then in English. The Lamido is a tall, smart and handsome man so it was not surprising to hear that he had 4 official wives, one ‘unofficial’ wife and 16 chilldren.

Not sure I will ever be back in the Extreme North but it is a trip I will not soon forget.

Belo

If you have not heard from me yet about my placement, it is because I still don’t know…. There is a potential placement in the works but nothing has been confirmed so I am still waiting. This is Africa – nothing happens quickly.

In the meantime, I have been trying to keep busy, helping out some colleagues with projects etc. One of these brought Dave and I to a small village called Belo, about 1 hour away from Bamenda. Nestled in the hills, it has beautiful scenery – cliffs, falls, etc. We have two VSO colleagues in Belo: Amy and Simon.

The first day, we arrived at about noon and Simon took us to a local ‘chop shop’ for rice and tomato stew – a staple around here. Afterwards we walked around town in the rain, admiring some of the vistas. We paid a brief visit to Amy’s organization. Then we trudged our way back to the compound where they both live. By this time, the road to the compound was all muddy and rutted – part of the adventure.

That night we stayed at Amy’s house – a nice big three bedroom house. She fed us a very good meal and we chatted away. She has a small balcony from which the view is spectacular. In the evening, we could see the clouds, at our level, wafting through the valley. In the morning we sat on the same balcony, sipping coffee and enjoying the fresh mountain air.

The next day, Simon, was kind enough to take us on the Belo walk. This is a trail that was marked by a local NGO that takes you right around the village. Simon promised that it was an easy walk. Clearly, he is in much better shape than I. Up and down the path went – and it was hot! The surroundings were simply beautiful! We often came upon thatched huts that so many of the locals live in. I only made it about half way before taking the short cut back to Simon’s.

As we headed back home, we passed Nbingo. The reason this is of note is that it is the hospital where our daughter Julie is likely to be working when she comes to visit in September. We are very excited about her visit and about being able to take the opportunity for her to also do her annual African volunteering stint. Couldn’t have worked out better.

The news finally came

Monday morning, I go into the office as usual. I am expecting Berry to come in but she does not appear. The cleaning lady, Grace, does a beautiful job and I quietly appreciate the women that I have met at Hope.

My placement being on hold, there is really no work to do. So I write and print a letter to my favourite aunt (which I better remember to mail) and do e-mail. I play solitaire while the very slow download of e-mails occurs. A couple of people come in and I explain that the people they were hoping to see were away until Thursday. Then I resolve that I will complete the Activity Log that VSO has required us to do… a task I had been putting off since my return from Canada.

Then the e-mail comes in. In big bold letters “Termination of Collaboration.” You all know I was expecting this to happen. HOPE really had no choice but to let me go – me or the funding, not much choice. But I was devastated. This was a pretty rude way to find out. I understand that my boss is away with the Fundamentalist couple but I had hoped a one-to-one conversation or at least a phone call. As a few choice words for the Fundamentalist couple spring to mind, the tears start rolling. I call Dave (always there when I need him) and tell him, asking him to come over. I need to pack up my things and leave.

As I wait for Dave, I write a note to Berry and one to Stephanie: “Sorry I did not get a chance to say goodbye in person, …” I empty my desk drawers – what comes, what stays. I put some things that need attention on Berry’s desk, then Stephanie’s desk, wiping my eyes as I go.

Just before Dave arrives, a lady appears at the door to visit. What a strange feeling. I put on my mask, greet her with a smile and explain that everyone is away at a mini-conference. Would she mind returning Thursday?

With Dave’s help, I put things away, collect others, and pack up my laptop. “What will you do with the keys? Dave asks. Nastily, I reply “That is their problem; they can come and get them!” In my heart, I know this is not HOPE’s fault – they were between a rock and a hard place, but I still feel disappointment and some anger.

Once home, all stuff is dumped and Dave says “Can I make you a cup of tea?” “No.” “Can I make you a hot chocolate? “No” “Is there anything I can do?” “Yes! Buy me a beer!” So off we go to the pub next door. (There always seems to be a pub next door where we are living!)

We sit at the pub for an over an hour, talking, discussing, chatting with the bar tender, and for me, shedding a few tears. Yet when we leave I felt refreshed and ready to move on. I know this really has nothing to do with me and the options open to me are not bad – another placement of my choosing or go home. I can handle either.

A conference like none I have ever seen

On June 22 to 25, Hope for the Widows and Orphans Ministry (HWOM) held its Conference of Hope - a conference like none I have ever seen. This year is special as HWOM is celebrating its 10th Anniversary. What a 10 years! The organization has grown from the vision of one person, Mirabelle Karawa and the unwavering support of her husband Sam. Working out of their home, they visited widows and their children and offered support whenever they could. Ten years later, HWOM serves over 2000 widows in at least 10 communities in the North West Region of Cameroon. They have sponsored over 500 children through primary, secondary and post secondary education. They have set up approximately 200 women in small business and provided direct charity in countless of ways, and more. A celebration was well deserved.

The conference started every morning with chanting prayers. Usually standing at the back, I would see 300+ women from all over the region swaying to the music and the beat of the drum. They are clearly joyous. The celebration takes on the air of a southern revival meeting. Soon you find yourself also swaying to the rhythm.

The conference, always running late, is interspersed with sessions and workshops. Sessions are presentations about topics of interest (my colleague Stephanie did a good one on HIV/Aids) and the workshops are for discussing topics addressed in the presentations. But in between, there is a lot of dancing and singing, skits and testimonials, lots of “Praise the Lord”. A group of children perform an African dance – great stuff! Outside tables are set up where widows from different communities present and sell their goods and crafts. There are some truly skilled women around.

The highlight of the conference came Thursday when Mirabelle presented a short history of the organization and then received congratulations from many supporters. Punctured with songs and prayers, it was a sincere tribute to her commitment and dedication.
There was the cake cutting – 11 cakes in fact, ten representing ten years of success, decorated as colourful baskets, symbols of abundance. The last was in the shape of an open bible, with the verse Mirabelle’s vision was based on. The cake cutting was  formal, pieces being presented by Mirabelle to guests of honour and the rest shared among the audience. Can you believe there were several cakes left over?
Now the conference is over, the hall is cleaned up. The end right? No, Mirabelle, Sam, Stephanie, Berry and the Americans are up in Ndu (about 6 hours away) having a mini conference for the women there. Then they will go to at least two more locations to do the same.  Now that is having a conference!

About roosters - a diversion

Let me start with a big thank you for all the comments and e-mails of support I have received in the last couple of days.  They are heartwarming and always appreciated.
First, a quick update.  Dave's mom is still in palliative care - we are just waiting for the phone call now.  Our son Eric tells us that she is peaceful.  My work is essentially on hold until the end of the big 10th anniversary conference that HOPE is now putting on.  I will be supporting them by doing registration etc.  After that we will see.

As the uncertainty in our lives continues, one turns to more mundane things to keep our mind off troubling ones. So I want to tell you about the humble rooster (not so humble actually!)

Around my place of work and my home, actually everywhere in Bamenda, there are roosters.  Not a creature that I have paid particular attention to in the past, the rooster has insituated itself in my daily life.  Where once I though of being woken up early by a country rooster an idyllic country image, now I am more likely to want them to just shut up. 

Who would have thought that cookle-doodle-doo could be so loud.  On reflection, when waking up a whole barnyard I guess one must be loud.  Still the other day, when one proud specimen let it all out just beneath my window, I truly jumped out of my chair.  I thought the world was coming to an end.  And trust me, they don't just crow in the morning, they start way before dawn and go all day. As a matter of fact, I hear one outside my window as I write this.

Not that I dislike the rooster.  He is a proud animal, strutting around his domain, usually surrounded by several hens.  With his head, crowned by a magnificient red crest, held high, he constantly surveys his entourage through jerky head movements, the rest of him very still, frequently letting out his cry.   Yesterday, as I was looking out my window, there was one.  As I stood up, the sharp eye made contact - I swear he was daring me to come closer, despite the wall and window that separated us.  Because roosters seem to have one eye on each side of the head, they always look like they are peering at you with suspicion. 

I don't know much about the love life of the rooster.  Here is what I have briefly observed.  The rooster, head erect, prances about the yard, cookle-doodle-doing at leisure, surrounded by his harem.  Then in a flash he sprints and jumps onto a neaby hen from behind.  By this time, the hen is already running away for dear life, but he jumps anyway.  Then, he falls off, straightens himself out and struts away.   Hard to say whether or not he has succeeded - it all happens in a flash.  By the number of eggs that are available around here, I gather he is successful more often than not.  Talk about the 30 second deed, this is more like 3.

Anyway so much about the rooster.  I trust that next time you hear one in the distance, or spot one, you will think of this creature with a different eye.